Understanding its mechanisms of action… “skin” version

2025-09-07 | News, Snail Slime Extract

4) Understanding its mechanisms of action… “skin” version


Without going into medical claims, one can describe plausible cosmetological mechanisms:

  • Multi-target humectation: polysaccharides and hyaluronic acid bind to water, increase surface hydration, and make the skin look smoother to the naked eye.

  • Conditioning effect: glycoproteins provide a silky touch, reduce perceived roughness, and improve product glide.

  • Sensory soothing: allantoin and certain amino acids help soften sensations of heat or tightness.

  • Breathable film-forming action: a very thin film limits water loss without heavy occlusion, leaving the skin looking “plumped” after rinsing or mask removal.


5) Mask formats suited to freeze-dried powder

a) Gel mask rehydrated on the spot
Mix the powder with a base: purified water + glycerin + xanthan gum (gelling agent) + mild preservative. Add the freeze-dried mucin at the end of preparation, during hydration, to obtain a translucent gel to be applied in a thick layer.

b) “Fresh-mix” sheet mask
One sachet contains the powder (mucin + actives) and a separate lotion. The user pours the lotion, shakes, soaks the sheet, and applies for 10–15 minutes. Advantage: stability outside water until the moment of use.

c) Alginate peel-off mask
Algae (alginates) and diatomaceous earth form, upon contact with water, a paste that sets into a flexible film. Incorporating freeze-dried snail mucin into the powder mix maximizes the humectant effect during mask setting.

d) “Rinse-off” cream mask
For dry skin, one can design an oil-in-water base (emulsion) and rehydrate the freeze-dried powder in the aqueous phase just before emulsification. The result is a comfortable, non-tightening mask that rinses off with lukewarm water.


6) Indicative usage ranges and compatibilities


Each supplier provides specific recommendations (titration, purity, solvents). As a general and purely indicative guideline for rinse-off masks:

  • Total dosage of freeze-dried extract: often 0.2% to 2% in reconstituted equivalent (≈1 g / 1 kg demineralized water), depending on desired concentration and skin sensitivity.

  • Formula pH: target 5.0 to 6.0 for skin comfort and stability of many co-actives (niacinamide, panthenol).

  • Compatibilities: good combinations with beta-glucans, hyaluronic acid (high and low MW), panthenol, squalane (in an emulsion), allantoin, freeze-dried aloe vera, gentle floral waters.

  • To avoid at first: high concentrations of strong exfoliating acids (AHA/BHA) or retinoids in the same mask, if the goal is soothing. They can be alternated on different days: exfoliant one evening, mucin the next.

Note: The above percentages are for guidance only and do not replace supplier specifications or the essential stability/microbiology tests required in product development.