Lyophilized Snail Secretion from Rawessencia: a Biotechnological Active for Professional BB Cream Formulation
Introduction
Snail secretion is now widely recognized as a multifunctional cosmetic active: repairing, hydrating, anti-aging, and soothing. In its lyophilized form, as offered by Rawessencia, it meets the high standards of stability, traceability, and reproducibility required by professional cosmetic formulators.
This article presents the technical foundations of this ingredient, its specific relevance in a BB cream, and a rigorous formulation proposal intended for cosmetic laboratories.
1. Lyophilized Snail Secretion: Formulation Benefits
1.1. Biochemical Composition of Interest
Snail secretion (Snail Secretion Filtrate – SSF) is naturally rich in:
-
Allantoin: stimulates cellular regeneration
-
**Glycolic acid (low %) **: promotes epidermal renewal
-
Glycosaminoglycans (hyaluronic-acid-like)
-
Bioactive proteins and peptides
-
Trace elements (Cu, Zn) and antioxidant enzymes
Lyophilization enables:
-
Microbiological standardization
-
Controlled concentration
-
Improved shelf life without intrinsic preservatives
-
On-demand solubilization, ideal for R&D and industrial scaling
👉 Typically, Rawessencia’s powder is rehydrated at 0.3–1% dry matter, equivalent to 5–20% liquid filtrate depending on grade.
2. BB Cream: Origin, Concept, and Evolution
2.1. Historical Background
The BB cream (Blemish Balm or Beauty Balm) originated in Germany in the 1960s, developed by dermatologists for post-procedural care (laser treatments, chemical peels).
It was later popularized in South Korea in the early 2000s before being adopted by Western cosmetic markets.
2.2. Cosmetic Positioning
A BB cream is a hybrid product combining:
-
moisturizing skincare
-
repairing and soothing actives
-
light-to-medium complexion correction
-
sometimes UV protection (depending on local regulations)
For formulators, it represents a complex balance between:
-
emulsion stability
-
pigment/biological active compatibility
-
sensorial performance
-
measurable efficacy
Lyophilized snail secretion is particularly relevant in this type of formulation, as it supports skin barrier repair while reducing inflammation potentially induced by pigments.
3. Formulation Proposal – Repairing BB Cream (Lab Prototype)
3.1. Galenic Type
-
Oil-in-Water emulsion (O/W)
-
Viscosity: 15,000 – 25,000 cPs
-
Target pH: 5.2 – 5.6
3.2. Indicative Formula (100%)
Phase A – Aqueous Phase
| Ingredient | % |
|---|---|
| Purified water | qs 100 |
| Vegetable glycerin | 4.0 |
| Lyophilized snail secretion Rawessencia (rehydrated) | 0.5 |
| Sodium PCA | 0.5 |
| Panthenol | 1.0 |
Phase B – Oil Phase
| Ingredient | % |
|---|---|
| Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride | 6.0 |
| Vegetable squalane | 3.0 |
| Deodorized shea butter | 2.0 |
| Cetearyl Alcohol | 2.0 |
| Glyceryl Stearate Citrate | 2.5 |
Phase C – Pigments
| Ingredient | % |
|---|---|
| Titanium Dioxide (CI 77891, coated) | 3.0 |
| Iron Oxides (CI 77491/92/99) | 1.2 |
| Spherical silica | 0.8 |
Phase D – Finishing
| Ingredient | % |
|---|---|
| Preservative (ISO 16128 compliant) | 0.8 |
| Chelating agent (Sodium Phytate) | 0.2 |
| Hypoallergenic fragrance | 0.2 |
| pH adjuster (NaOH / Lactic acid) | qs |
3.3. Manufacturing Process (Summary)
-
Disperse lyophilized snail secretion in water at room temperature until fully hydrated
-
Heat phases A and B separately to 75 °C
-
Emulsify phase B into phase A under controlled stirring
-
Incorporate pre-dispersed pigments
-
Gradually cool to below 40 °C
-
Add phase D and adjust pH
-
Final homogenization
4. Marketing and Regulatory Relevance
-
Natural biotechnological active
-
Compatible with clean beauty / ISO 16128 frameworks
-
Strong repairing + complexion-perfecting claim
-
Particularly suitable for sensitive, post-procedure, and urban-stressed skin
Conclusion
Rawessencia’s lyophilized snail secretion stands out as a strategic active ingredient for modern BB cream formulations. It enables the combination of biological performance, industrial stability, and consumer expectations, while offering formulators significant flexibility for sensory, regulatory, and claims optimization.

